Accommodation at the Old School House, Milton
A short getaway in Mudgee, NSW
For our anniversary in November, we decided to take a few days off for a quick city escape. We were keen to visit a new location, and decided to check out the charms of the beautiful country town of Mudgee, NSW. With a two-night stay, we had one full day to explore the area, which gave us a brief introduction to the town. But we felt that our time there was too short, and we will most definitely arrange a longer stay next time!
Perry St Hotel, Mudgee
We stayed at the Perry St hotel in Mudgee. Starting life as a Mechanics Institute in 1862, the building has been converted into a beautiful boutique hotel. It was our kind of place – we love to see beautiful buildings being restored and used in new creative ways. And it is a very short walk into town if you are interested in eating locally.
Common outdoor area at Perry St Hotel, Mudgee
Perry St Hotel, Mudgee
Anglican Church, Mudgee
Take the opportunity to stroll around the town... enjoy a few of the many cafe's along the main streets (cool or quaint, take your pick) and admire the beautiful buildings (Anglican Church shown above). And if you love homewares or vintage shopping (like me!), then you might like visiting Cedar Cicada and Mrs Skinners Stable.
Fermentation tanks at Mudgee Brewing Company
If you want a change from all the wine tasting... try beer tasting instead, at the Mudgee Brewing Company. We enjoyed lunch here, with a beer tasting paddle.
Take a scenic drive to enjoy the country landscape
Take one of the tourist drives out of town, and take in the pretty countryside along the way. You will also find numerous wineries just out of town, with cellar doors for tastings.
The Cellar by Gilbert
We enjoyed a sample of wines at The Cellar by Gilbert, and couldn't resist buying a few bottles to take home.
The Cellar by Gilbert
Summer sailing in Croatia
With over 4000km of coastline to explore, our 7-day sailing itinerary provided us with the perfect introduction to the beautiful islands of Croatia.
It’s late afternoon, and the warmth of another hot July day lingers on. In a small cove off the island of Šćedro, predicting a change of wind overnight, we have anchored securely with two lines stern to shore and a secondary anchor. Now that we have settled in, we are enjoying our new afternoon routine. Swim, sunbake, swim, eat, drink … and watch the antics of bareboat sailors as they attempt to tie up for the night. The drama that unfolds as they try to anchor, go too close to the rocky shore and within inches of losing their security deposits, pull up anchor and try again is usually entertaining, but at times a little scary.
Admittedly, that could have easily been us. My husband is an enthusiastic sailor, but with only a few years of experience, and I’m a landlubber. We had considered the option of chartering a bareboat for our Croatian sailing adventure, but in the end decided to go with a skippered charter instead. As we made our way around the islands, it quickly became evident that bareboat charters are a hugely popular option, with multiple charter companies ready to accommodate. But on more than one occasion, we were very glad to be with an experienced skipper. And hey, who doesn’t love being guided to the best secret bays and beaches, and avoiding the flotillas making the most of the European summer?
After seven nights onboard ‘Wishing for the moon’, a beautiful Oyster 48, we were left wishing it would last forever. But if, like us, you only have limited time to explore this area, our itinerary will give you a taste of the gorgeous Dalmatian coastline of Croatia.
Arrival in Split
With a major airport in Split, we decided to make this city our start and finish point for our charter. With a short flight from Paris to Split (after a not-so-short flight from Sydney to Paris), we took the opportunity to spend a few nights in Split to explore the town before heading off on our sailing adventure. Split is a beautiful town, with layers of history and lots to see. We used Airbnb and stayed in a guesthouse a short walk from the centre of town and Split Marina. The view from our room overlooking the harbour was spectacular, and the perfect teaser for our upcoming adventure.
Make sure you check where you will be picking up your charter or bareboat, as we realised on arrival that we had to make our way to Marina Kastela, about 30mins from the centre of Split. But with the availability of Uber, we didn’t have any issues getting a ride out of town.
We sailed on ‘Wishing for the moon’ around Corsica and Sardinia in 2013, so meeting up with Skipper Len and his wife Kathleen felt like greeting old friends. Living in close quarters for a week it is important to get on well, so check out reviews if you are planning to book a skippered charter.
Day 1: Čiovo and Uvala Vira, Hvar
Summertime sailing amongst the islands of Croatia will fulfil every holiday dream, with warm sunny days, clear blue water and islands to explore. We didn’t travel too far before we decided to drop anchor in a little bay on the island of Čiovo to test out that blue water and cool off from the midday heat. We then sailed on to the harbour of Uvala Vira, a quiet cove on the island of Hvar, to tie up to a mooring for the evening. In some of these quiet locations, you will find moorings where you can stay for free, but you are expected to dine at the local restaurant. On this night we were happy to give it a go, not sure what to expect, and looking forward to experiencing the local culture.
We took the dinghy and rowed ourselves the short distance to a rustic looking restaurant, with fishnets tied to the ceilings, heavy timber furniture and a viewing table full of fresh fish. The menu was straightforward. Fish. Or fish. As we are both vegetarians, we had to bend our rules to eat for the evening. Don’t tell anyone! The meal was fresh and delicious but cost more than we expected, and we ended up in the awkward situation of not having enough cash to pay and no credit card facilities available. Sheepishly, we asked if we could row back to the boat to see if we could rummage up some change and bring it back. They didn’t seem concerned, and when my husband later returned with the money, the waiters insisted on providing him with a vodka shot before sending him on his way. A great first day all round!
Day 2: Old town, Hvar and Uvala Tri Luke, Korčula
The next morning, we motored around to the main town of Hvar, to explore the old city. It is a busy destination, including a port for the local ferry which brings in many tourists. But we picked up a free buoy and explored the town for a few hours. After the obligatory coffee stop, we walked up to the fortress, Fortica Španjola. It is well worth the effort, even on a hot day, for the spectacular views of the harbour from the top of the fort. And if you like maritime history, there is a small museum in the fortress which includes a collection of amphora. We found this quite exciting, as my husband had seen a similar clay vessel on the ocean floor whilst diving around the yacht the day before.
With the wind behind us in the afternoon, the spinnaker went up and we sailed along for a few hours at about 8.4 knots, making good time to our destination Uvala Tri Luke, a cove on the island of Korčula. We were not completely alone, but with only three other yachts in the bay and a few villas tucked into the surrounding hillside, it felt like seclusion compared with the busy port in Hvar town. The clear waters are wonderful for snorkelling, but make sure you take some reef shoes to give you some protection from the sea urchins and rocky beaches. We ate dinner that night with Len and Kathleen, enjoying fresh pesto made from basil grown onboard, a real treat.
Day 3: Old town, Korčula and Luka Banja, Korčula
After a wonderfully slow start to the day, making the most of every opportunity to jump into the sea off the back of the yacht, we continued along the side of Korčula island, sailing and motoring as the conditions allowed. For our lunch stop, we anchored at Pupnatska, a popular little bay. While we ate, we enjoyed music from a live band playing at the beach café, the sound carrying 150 metres across the water. Eventually we swam across to join other holiday makers on the rocky beach.
Sailing up to the old town of Korčula is another spectacular sight, with the fortress at the water’s edge, and multiple large cruise ships rafted up alongside each other. Our Skipper recommended a bay with free anchorage and only a 30-minute walk to the old town, so we took that option and stopped at Luka Banja for the night. The walk into town during the golden hour as the sun was setting was delightful, with a view of the dramatic mountains across the water and bougainvillea covered buildings at the entrance to the town. You can wind your way up through the fort to reach restaurants at the top with a spectacular view, and then roam the night markets after dinner.
Day 4: Lovisce, Šćedro
We decided to go back to Korčula in the morning to enjoy a leisurely coffee and crepe breakfast whilst Len and Kathleen restocked on supplies (another cheeky benefit of not doing things on our own). We then sailed downwind to the island of Šćedro. This bay also has free moorings in exchange for dining at one of the local restaurants, and this time we were better prepared, calling up to request a vegetarian meal and asking about credit card facilities.
After the afternoon entertainment with the bareboats, we took the dinghy around to the restaurant. We arrived early for dinner, and as we were initially the only customers, we enjoyed a conversation with the restaurant owner as he shared his love for his island home. He gave us a map of the local walking trails and encouraged us to explore the island before setting off in the morning.
Day 5: Šćedro and Kut bay, Vis
Excited by the prospect of a hike across the small island, we set off in the morning on our exploration of Šćedro. There are clearly marked walking paths that will take you to an old abandoned village of stone houses, and in the other direction, the ruins of a Dominican monastery surrounded by stacked stone walls. If you are keen, you can walk across the width of the island to a secluded pebbly beach - just keep your eyes peeled for the track that turns off toward the beach. If you are lucky, you will have the place to yourself, and spot a few local water pheasants rummaging in the nearby bushland.
Next stop was Kut Bay on the island of Vis. Another charming old town, with winding streets amongst fort walls, and plenty of shops, restaurants and an outdoor cinema. The perfect place to wander along the promenade with an ice-cream in hand. We had difficulty finding a restaurant to take a credit card, so make sure you have some cash on you.
Day 6: Uvala Slatine, Vis Island; Blue Cave, Bisevo and Komiža, Vis
Making the most of conditions in our final few days onboard, we continued to sail around Vis, stopping at Uvala Slatine for lunch. Noteworthy for the swarm of wasps that decided to join us, and the home-made trap that Kathleen swiftly created to lure them away. They appear docile, but we did see them a few times during our trip and they do have a stinger, so keep an eye out for them.
A last-minute decision in the afternoon took us to the Blue Cave in Bisevo. You are not allowed to visit with your own dinghy, so you need to buy a ticket and join the queue. It is well organised and there is a café and seats to make your wait comfortable. I was ambivalent about the visit at the start, thinking that it would just be a regular cave, but the glowing blue water is quite amazing to behold, and as we were the last group going through that day, it felt a little adventurous with the high tide and ducking as our dinghy made its way through the narrow tunnel entrance into the cavern.
Sailing into Komiža on the island of Vis, we were reminded again of the benefits of being with a skipper as we passed a flotilla and reflected on our flexibility to be able to sail from place to place at our leisure. Dinner at Komiža was another memorable experience, as we ate at a repurposed lobster facility, where you can motor your dinghy straight into the restaurant, like in a scene out of a James Bond movie. A novelty, yes, but lots of fun, and a wonderful view of the harbour. It is popular, so be sure to book.
Day 7: Uvala Talinja, Solta
For our penultimate day onboard, we were blessed with strong winds and another great day of sailing, although we were often beating against the prevailing wind. My husband took every opportunity to learn from Len and chalk up as much direct experience as possible. For myself, it was the only day that I felt sea sick, so I tried to keep my eyes on the horizon and avoid feeding the fish. When we anchored at Solta for the afternoon, I was keen to get in the water and felt much better after a snorkel and seeing my first octopus on the ocean floor.
Saying farewell in Split
On our final day of sailing we had good conditions once again, and I appreciated that we were running with the wind. Enjoying the feeling of whizzing along, racing the catamaran running alongside, but all the while, not wanting to get into Split any faster than necessary.
As we came into Split Marina, we could see the queue for fuel and were glad that Len and Kathleen would make their way to a quieter marina after dropping us off. We saw a spot to tie up, and reluctantly dragged our luggage and ourselves off the yacht. We said a quick goodbye after the port officials politely told us that we didn’t have permission to tie up and asked us to move on. We waved farewell and made promises to ourselves that we would come back and do it all again… maybe even on a bareboat next time.
Easy day trips from Hakuba, Japan
A snow monkey exploring the steamy hot springs at the Snow Monkey Park in Nagano, Japan
During our recent two-week family holiday in Japan, we arranged to hire a car in Hakuba for the intervening weekend. We were keen to experience more of Japan, and to see the local attractions on this second visit. And it turned out to be perfect timing, as we were all a little sore and ready for a break after 4 days of snowboarding.
My sister and her husband have visited Hakuba many times over the years, and were happy to be our tour guides. So, using the 'alternative route' on Google maps, we drove through the labyrinth of backstreets and squeezed down the narrow lanes of Nagano and the surrounding suburbs.
We were travelling with two kids and a baby, so we kept the itinerary relaxed with lots of time for meal stops and rest breaks, but you could potentially fit in a few more things each day.
Day One: Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (Snow Monkey Park) and Zenkoji Temple
Snow Monkey Park
It was magical to see these furry friends up close, to see firsthand the way they climb, wander and interact with each other. On the day that we visited, it was a little too balmy (at a mere 3 degrees Celsius!) for them to be in the hot springs, but they walked along the edges of the pools and provided lots of photo opportunities for the tourist paparazzi.
Entrance to the Snow Monkey Park
A snow monkey drinking from the hot spring.
With a visit to the Snow Monkey Park, we also experienced the Japanese practice of forest bathing. Don’t worry, no clothing was removed, we just enjoyed the fresh air and tranquil surrounds of the forest during the 30-minute walk between the car park and the main entrance.
A building at the entrance to the Snow Monkey Park
Forest bathing on the trail to the Snow Monkey park
Zenkoji Temple
I was amazed by the beautiful architecture and history of Zenkoji temple, built in the 7th century. It was a gorgeous location, and I was captivated by the bustling promenade leading down to the temple gates, and the quiet details as visitors said their prayers and asked for blessings. We arrived late in the afternoon, but you could easily spend many hours wandering amongst the stores in that main street, and exploring the grounds of the temple. I believe that this is a glimpse of the surrounding city of Nagano and I am keen to include a longer visit next time.
Zenkoji Temple in Nagano Japan
The busy main street in front of the Zenkoji temple.
Straw sandals (and a pair of ballet shoes) tied up at the guardian statues at the entrance to the Zenkoji temple.
The smoke wafting from the lion incense burner in the Zenkoji temple courtyard.
Slippers for sale on the main street as you walk towards Zenkoji temple.
The prayers on paper and tied to the branches of the trees at the Zenkoji temple
Day Two: Matsumoto Castle
A contrasting red bridge spans the moat to Matsumoto castle.
A grand building with landscaped grounds, Matsumoto Castle is another architectural and historical gem. We took the opportunity to explore the interior of the building with the kids. It was easy to imagine the battles that were fought in defence of the castle. There are narrow and steep staircases, small openings for archers, and floors with views that extend across the grounds and the moat. With our imaginations already on fire, the fierce Samurai that we bumped into as we left the castle made us all gape for a split second. Then he asked the kids if they would like a photo, and we all giggled and said, 'Yes, please!'.
A few swans enjoying the moat of Matsumoto Castle with imposing mountains as a backdrop
We enjoyed a picnic lunch in the surrounding gardens before visiting the ice-sculpture exhibition around the exterior of the castle. Of course, we couldn’t do that before going past the picnic ground vending machines for ice-cream first.
Front entrance to Matsumoto castle
One of eight vending machines in a row near the picnic tables.
Roof details of Matsumoto castle
The amazing ice sculptures surrounding Matsumoto Castle
Have you explored the Hakuba region? I’d love to know your recommendations on places to visit or stories about your favourite experiences. Head over to Instagram to leave me a comment with your suggestions and stories at @sam.gilchrist_
Need a place to stay in Hakuba? We stayed in Echoland at Yuki Ita Lodge, which you can find on Airbnb. New to Airbnb? Use this referral link to get a $55 credit* towards your booking. Yay!
*Terms and conditions apply
Hiking the Overland Track, Tasmania
Reflections on walking from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair, Tasmania
Ronny Creek, Day 1
The photo above was taken on day 1 of our Overland Track adventure. We were only a few hundred metres from the starting point of the 6-day hike and we were so excited, with no clue of what to expect. Without hesitation, I can now say that it was an amazing experience. At times we felt like we were all alone, two tiny specks in the gorgeous and vast Tasmanian wilderness. It was awe-inspiring and grounding. We loved the experience and want to do it all over again!
Ronny Creek, Day 1
The sheer cliff face of Cradle Mountain, Day 1 (taken just before I fell over!)
New Pelion Hut, Day 3
New Pelion Hut (pictured above) is about 35km into the Overland Track, and we arrived at the end of (a very long, 16.8km) day 3. The huts that you stop at each night are fantastic, with basic bunk beds, areas to prepare food and (somewhat temperamental) gas heaters on a timer. And we needed those gas heaters! We were usually cold and wet when we arrived each evening.
There were challenges on the hike… carrying an 18kg pack with all your supplies. Falling over with said pack pining you down and not being able being able to get back up again. Trying to save your camera from getting smashed during said fall and smashing your face on a rock instead. My gore-tex boots did not keep my feet dry. My old rain jacket totally failed. Snow, sleet and gale force winds on the first day. Getting up to turn on the heater every 45mins to try and stay a little warm. Leeches (eeew). But those challenges made getting to the end (without needing a medivac) feel like a huge achievement. I felt like I was stronger and more resilient by the end… however, I am also perfectly happy to grow and learn through joyful experiences instead. Just putting that out there to the Universe…
I flew along on the last day of our OT walk... I'm convinced that my cracking pace was due to the lighter pack. I was carrying the food supplies, so my pack got progressively lighter each day of the hike. Daniel, on the other hand, is convinced that I had my eyes on the prize, our accommodation that night at Pumphouse Point... that converted historic beauty, a glorious hot shower and a soft, soft bed.... ok, yes, I’ll admit that was very motivating too!
Lake St Clair Ferry, Day 6. It snowed the night before, but the weather was beautiful the next day. Expect all seasons on the track!
Pumphouse Point
Room with a view at Pumphouse Point
In all the excitement of finishing the walk, we completely forgot to return the emergency locator beacon that we had hired. So, after walking for 6 days, we went for a change of pace and borrowed the Pumphouse Point bikes to ride the 5km back to the Lake St Clair Visitors Centre to return the beacon. And it started snowing as we rode along... a magical way to end our Tasmanian adventure!
Pumphouse Point
I'll put together a future post about the lessons we learnt on this trip, and things we will take or ditch for next time. But in the interim, here are a few notes about the gear that we took with us...
Pack: I bought a Black Wolf rucksack for the trip, specifically the 65L McKinley pack. I was familiar with Black Wolf backpacks, as I used one many years ago on a trek to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal. As expected, there was a small period of adjustment, but I found it comfortable and practical overall. I'll be using it again for our next big hike.
Boots: I splurged on a pair of Mammut gore-tex boots. They were easy to break in, very comfortable to wear. But they didn't keep out the water on days when we had a lot of rain, or had to walk through water laying on the ground. In comparison, my husband had a pair of leather boots, and his feet stayed dry. I'll still use them for shorter hikes, and in suitable conditions. But I will be looking for a pair of quality leather hiking boots before our next multi-day hike.
Meal Kit: After much consideration, we decided to take along two Light My Fire meal kits. It was handy to pre-pack our lunch in these kits each morning, and to store it on the top of our packs for quick and easy access. They still regularly come in handy as work lunchboxes!
Sleeping mat: We took along Sea to Summit Ultralight Insulated sleeping mats. They look a little unusual, and like most air mattresses, they are noisy when you move around. But they were compact and lightweight, and for a multi-day hike when every gram counts, that was greatly appreciated.
Tent: As we were booked in to hike the Overland Track at the end of the regular season (ie. just before winter), we were concerned about the weather conditions. We had a 3-season tent, but decided to upgrade to a 4-season Alps Mountaineering Tasmanian 2 person tent. Again, it was compact and lightweight, which made it ideal. In the end, we only used it once, as there was plenty of room in the huts along the way. But the night that we used it turned out to be very stormy, and we were secure and snug in the tent. Our experience with it is limited, but it served us well that night. We have used it numerous times since during our summer camping trips and it has been great. And we will take it with us on our next multi-day adventure.
Hope this helps you with your planning for your own hiking adventure!